Automotive Detailing Tips

We all loves our cars and perhaps our proudest moment is when the car is new and looks it's best. Our cars though, are subjected to all sorts of abuses, including the South Florida sun, dirt, pollution, and salt air, all of which can affect your car's finish. Keeping your vehicle clean and properly detailed (waxed, etc.) will keep that "SHOWROOM NEW" look. As a rule of thumb, because of the conditions found here in South Florida, you should wash and wax your car often, about once every 60-90 days.

If detailing your vehicle is not your gig with all the work and time involved, let our team of Professional Detailers keep your vehicle looking it's best. We have all the right soaps, chemicals and waxes and experience to make your car really shine. Just click on the Detail Menu above.

But if you want to keep your "baby" looking its' best yourself, below are a few suggested guidelines to follow to maintain that "showroom" look.

Washing
Start by THOROUGHLY rinsing the car. Rule #1, use lots of water and a gentle stream to avoid scratches. Excessive water pressure will cause the dirt to grind at the surface. Some detailers prefer to let the water flow freely out of the hose without the benefit of a nozzle.

Use a detergent designed specifically for car washing. Don't use common dish washing detergent, as it is too strong and will remove the wax you want to keep.

There really isn't a lot to washing a car; simply mix liquid car wash soap according to the directions, dip your sponge or mit into the bucket and have at it. There are a few guidelines to follow however:

• Use generous amounts of water/detergent. On most vehicle, you should use two or three buckets. On a medium sized car, such as a Hyundai Sonata or Azera, four or five buckets will do the job. When the bucket gets down to about one-third fill, empty it, give it a quick rinse and refill with detergent/water.
• When you wash your vehicle, do it in sections. Start with the roof, which will make rinsing easier. Then do other sections, such as the front fender, door, rear fender and so on, rinsing thoroughly in between. Always rinse soon after applying so a soap film does not develop. Do not suds up the entire car and then rinse; some of the soap will dry and a film like substance will remain.
• After washing, rinse the entire car just to be sure all the soap is cleared away. Don't forget the nooks, crannies and crevices where soap can hide.
• If your vehicle is particularly dirty, wash it twice. The first washing will take care of the majority of the dirt and the second will complete the job. Some car enthusiasts will wash twice as part of their routine.
• Avoid scratches by using two buckets; one will have your normal car wash detergent, the other will be just water. When you are finished soaping up a particular area, rinse the wash mit/sponge in the plain water. This will keep scratch causing dirt particles from revisiting the surface of your car. Another approach is to rinse off with your hose the wash mit/sponge before dipping it into the car wash detergent.

Drying
Dry thoroughly, using a generous supply of the softest towels you can find. Fold the towel into a manageable square and turn it over or unfold it frequently to take advantage of its entire surface. Used towels seem to work best, probably because repeated washings have softened them. Bath towels work well, although it may be more practical to cut them in half.

Microfiber Towels
Microfiber towels are a recent development and have gained quick acceptance amongst both professional and amateur detailers.

As their name implies, Microfiber towels are made up of extremely fine fibers about 100 times smaller than human hair. They feature soft surfaces that accommodate the "avoid scratches at all costs" mantra of a quality detailing job. Unlike cotton, which is a natural fabric, Microfiber is synthetically manufactured using two basic fibers, Polyester and Polyamide. Microfiber towels used for drying are "split", a process which allows them to "hook" up dirt and other undesireable items, giving them their cleaning properties. The same splitting process gives microfiber towels their water absorbant characteristics. They are excellent for drying a car after a washing session and can absorb seven times their weight in water.

Wash microfiber towels with small amounts of liguid detergent; do not use powder as it is possible for undissolved scratch causing powder particles to remain in the towel. Do not use bleach or fabric softeners. Air drying is preferred as intense heat is bad for microfiber towels.
Drying is best accomplished as a two part process. The first time you will get rid of most of the water and the second pass will complete the job. As with rinsing, do not forget the various nooks and crannies which can trap water.

Waxing/Polishing
Polishing, as it applies to car detailing, refers to the act of restoring gloss by removing contaminants, restoring valuable oils and smoothing the paint surface. Most polishes accomplish this by being a mild abrasive and some do it by way of a chemical reaction.

What are your options?
You have three basic choices when it comes to treating paint surfaces:

• Polish
• Cleaner
• Rubbing compound

Each of these work by removing unwanted oxidation, in very small amounts, from the surface of the paint/clear coat. They vary in their "aggressiveness". Rubbing compound removes the most amount for a given application while polishes remove the least, with cleaners somewhere in between. Obviously, removing embedded dirt and contaminents within the clear coat or paint surface should be taken seriously. The trick is to use a product with the right amount of aggressiveness. For this reason, we recommend starting with an application of polish. If the polish does not seem to have enough of an effect, try an application of cleaner. Using an orbital buffer will make the job go much faster. However, the polish or cleaner should be designed for machine use. If a cleaner or polish application doesn't get the job done, rubbing compound may be the solution. Rubbing compound is a strong abrasive however, and should be taken seriously. For that reason, we recommend that you turn the task over to one of the professional detailers here at Ed Napleton Honda Auto Body Work.

Polishes serve to remove contaminants on the clear coat/paint surface. This can include airborne pollutants, tree sap, bird droppings and so on. For many detailers, this function can best be accomplished by claying.  Again, we recommend that you turn the task of claying over to one of our professional detailers.

Your decision to use polishes or cleaners will depend on the condition of your vehicle finish, so it is difficult to give any hard and fast recommendations. If the paint looks dull after washing, a polish application could be the next step. If the paint is very dull, to the point of having a certain amount of roughness to the texture, then an application of cleaner is in order. Prime candidates are cars that have not been detailed for a long time.

Swirls
Swirls are those nasty circular lines that show up in bright sunlight and go a long way towards preventing your car from looking "right". They are best thought of as microscopic scratches and are usually the result of poor detailing practices. There is a reason why "avoiding scratches" is rule #1!

There are a number of swirl removal products available. Some are basically polishes that work by dulling the edges of the scratches; this might not remove the scratches entirely but it can help out the situation considerably. Others work as fillers, placing material in the scratch so that they effectively disappear. Wax and glazes perform a similar function. If you are not satisfied with the results of your swirl remover treatment, consult a detailing professional.

Oxidation
The finish of a car is always wet, even if it is dry. To make sense of this statement, consider the fact that paint needs certain oils to keep its fresh glossy look. Ultraviolet rays from the sun and smog can dry up these essential oils, and the result is a dull and flat finish known as oxidation. If you could look at oxidized paint under a high powered microscope, you would see a surface that looks dry and cracked like the desert.

When it occurs, oxidation appears as dull and dry spots on the finish and usually is first noticed on the flat horizontal areas of the car. If paint residue appears on your wash mitt, you definitely have an oxidation problem. The solution to oxidation is to remove the uppermost surface of dead paint. To do that we have three basic choices:

Important Notes:

• Since cleaners and polishes removes paint, they will also remove the wax on top of the paint. Be sure to rewax any area that has had a polish, cleaner or rubbing compound treatment.
• You won't often need to use a polish or cleaner if you diligently keep the exterior clean and polish/wax your car often.  Basically if you wash your car regularly and maintain a good coat of wax, contaminants won't have the chance to ruin the cars finish.
• If you have any concerns about your cars surface, consider consulting with one of our detailing professionals. We will be able to tell you exactly what your car needs depending on its condition. See one of our Service Advisors for more details.

Waxing
Once you are comfortable with the condition of the paint, it is time to think of a coating of wax. Wax functions as a paint preserver by helping it to retain certain oils, which reduce oxidation. It also serves to protect from environmental hazards such as bird droppings, tree sap, smog and the sun's ultraviolet rays. And it gives paint the depth, gloss and richness that can make all those detailing hours worthwhile.

Wax is available in three forms: liquid, paste and spray. As a general rule, liquid wax goes on easier, but does not last as long as the paste products. Which one you use is your choice. Beware though; some paste waxes have small amounts of abrasives.  Make sure to read the label.

We recommend a single application of wax. Don't try to put on a thick application with the intent that you won't have to wax as often because it won't work. You'll mostly end up with an excessive amount of wax residue to remove, making the job more difficult. You are better off waxing more frequently. You can use the round applicators that come with some waxes or are available separately. A damp rectangular kitchen sponge makes a good applicator, as its shape seems to be able to handle the detail areas of a car. A second application on the nose and hood, where the wind quickly wears off the wax will give you a longer lasting wax job.

What Goes On, Must Come Off
When the wax is dry, remove the residue using only a very soft cloth. Microfiber towels are ideal. As soon as the cloth movement feel has resistance, find a fresh surface.

A word about electric buffers, rotary and orbital: An orbital buffer is safest for the inexperienced user and can achieve the same results as a rotary. An orbital is heavier than a rotary though. The rotary buffer is much faster than orbital buffer, but in the wrong hands can easily damage paint. For that reason, we recommend our fellow non-professionals stick with an orbital buffer. Rotarys should be used only by experienced users and not by your average at-home detailer. Severe paint damage can occur!!!!

If you find yourself struggling to remove the wax residue, then you have probably applied to much wax to begin with, which is a common mistake of novice detailers. If you have applied the correct amount of wax, the residue removal will be minimal.

The hard part is removing the wax residue from the various creases and edges. The edges of the doors, trunk, hood and so on are easy; just open them and go over the area with a soft cloth. Fixed items, such as side marker lights, badges, radio antennas, windshield washer nozzles, etc. are more difficult.  You can also purchase detailing brushes, which have soft bristles made especially for detailing around the nooks and crannies of your car

How Often?
We recommend that you wax your car once every two to three months.  South Florida ’s sun and other elements are tough on your vehicle finish.  When it comes to deciding if it is time for a new coat of wax, the time-honored water-beading test cannot be topped.  While you are doing the wash pre-rinse, notice how the water drops bead up. If the drops are more than one-half inch diameter, or if the water tends to form "sheets" as in the photo on the left, then a new wax job is a good idea.

Probably the most troublesome part as far as cleaning wax residue is the windshield washer nozzles. Try protecting them with masking tape before you apply the wax. The same procedure works on other trim bits as well.

As a reminder, Ed Napleton Honda Auto Body Works offers value-priced detailing services to help you keep your  vehicle looking showroom new. See your Service Advisor for further details and pricing.

Wheels
Wheels can be divided into two categories: painted and non painted.

Both have one thing in common: brake dust. Brake dust is the grayish material that coats the exterior of a wheel and goes a long way towards detracting from their appearance. The source of brake dust is is the brake pads; as they wear, they turn into brake dust.

Special wheel cleaners are available that are designed to remove the brake dust and can be purchased to accommodate painted and not painted wheels.

If you are not sure if you have painted wheels, take some light polish and put it on a white towel (or another color if the wheel is white) and rub it on a small area of the wheel. If the surface of the rag is black you have a non painted (metal surface) wheel. If the towel is the color of the wheel, you have a painted wheel. If the towel is not black but the wheel appears to have a metal surface, you most likely have a clear coated wheel. Clear coated wheels can be treated just like painted wheels.

If you do have a non painted wheel, it is important to determine the material that the wheel is made of so you'll use the proper cleaner. The surface and how it is treated can make a difference. For example chromed, brushed, machined, anodized or polished aluminum wheels have different requirements.
It is best to separate wheel cleaning from the washing of the surface of the car. There are three reasons for this:

Avoiding scratches. The wheels and tires are likely to contain large dirt particles. If you use the same wash mit or sponge, the dirt particles could transfer from the wheels to the paint surface, causing scratches.

Wheels are generally dirtier than your paint surface, and so they may require more aggressive cleaning. Cleaning your wheels separately allows you to use a higher concentration of detergent; you can also use dish detergent which you would not use on the paint surface because it will remove the wax.

We recommend that you wash, rinse and dry each wheel separately. Although it may seem inefficient, water spots will not have a chance to appear and you' will be able to quickly tend to the adjacent paint surfaces of the car which will be affected with the wheel washing.

Remove hubcaps or any other part of the wheel that is removable and wash them separately. Wash the inside of the hubcap too as any dirt, brake dust etc. inside can rinse out and appear on the wheel as you rinse the car or wheel.

Tires
It is easiest to wash the tire along with the wheel. There are a number of good tire treatment products available which will do a fine job. Apply according to the manufacturers directions. Wipe the tire with a light colored towel. If the towel has black residue, give it another treatment. You could end up doing this several times as layers of brake dust and dead rubber come off.

Do not attempt to treat the tread surface of a tire. It won't do much good as it will soon degrade when the car is driven. It could also affect the performance of the tire.

Interior
We spend all these hours working on our cars as a present to ourselves. That is why many enthusiasts feel that detailing the interior is more important than the body, because that is where we spend most of our time. It would therefore make sense that we take special care that the inside of a car is not neglected.

Interior surfaces can be divided into two basic categories. There is the hard vinyl surfaces (such as the dashboard) and breathable surfaces such as cloth seats.

Vacuuming should be the first step. Use a strong shop or home vacuum. The small ones that plug into a cigar lighter or operate on rechargeable batteries just don't have the power to do the job. Remove the floor mats and do them separately. Vacuum all areas, including those that you will soon be cleaning with a liquid cleaner. Use a brush attachment for areas that could be marred with an impact from a hard edged attachment.

The hard vinyl surfaces are easy. We use Simple Green, commonly available at department stores, etc. Dilute the with one part concentrate to eight parts water; go heavier (up to one part concentrate to two parts water) for stubborn stains. Drench a cloth in the mixture and then apply liberally to a section about 1' x 2' or less. Quickly follow up by wiping down with a microfiber towel. Note: Do not use Simple Green on metal surfaces.

Floor mats are easy. Just remove them and whale away at them with the hose as part of the exterior wash job. In most cases you'll get all of the dirt out. If not, apply carpet cleaner and work it with a brush. Clean the vinyl part of the drivers mat with Simple Green or your chosen equivalent. Do not treat that area with a dressing! If could be picked up by the driver's shoes and cause slipping problems when they work the pedals.

Next apply a good grade foam carpet cleaner to the cloth and carpet areas. Vacuuming first is necessary as that will pick up the loose dirt, which is probably most of the job. Next work in the foam with a brush, using being careful not to be so aggressive as to ruin the surface. Pick up the foam residue with a wet/dry vacuum (best) or a cloth.

Serious stains and other problems can be treated with a household carpet cleaner such as Resolve. First try the procedure on a hidden area to be sure that the color is not affected.

If your vehicle has a leather interior, special care should be taken when cleaning.  Never use any type of “sealant”  on leather.  Leather needs to be plyable, or “breath”.  Sealing will cause pre-mature aging abd cracking of the leather surface. If you have specific questions concerning your leather interior, please see one of our professional detailers for a free evaluation.